The Subwoofer Site

here’s the link
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3522_Visonik+VB212PKG+DUAL+Subs+Amplified+System.html

any opinions?? any better deals? opionions?? please please give some feedback im new to buying speakers..

Amplifier Features:

* 2-Channel High Performance Amplifier
* Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB @ 45 Hz
* Power/ Protection LED
* RCA Line Inputs & Outputs
* Thermal / Short / Overlaod Protection Circuitry
* Variable HP / LP Crossover
* Adjustable Input Sensitivity
* Full MOSFET Circuitry
* 1-year Manufacturer’s warranty

Subwoofer + Box (VBB212) Features:

* 5/8" High-Quality MDF Construction
* 1000 watts Peak Power Handling
* 500 watts RMS Power Handling
* Completely Sealed and Pressure Tested
* Heavy duty industrial carpeting
* Heavy duty Lock Terminals
* Digitally Computer Tuned Subwoofer for this Particular Enclosure
* Poly Coated Pulp Cone subwoofers
* Dimensions: 26.75" H x 18.5" W x 13.5" D
* 1-year Manufacturer’s warranty (on subwoofers only)
btw the price is about $170… is it a ripoff??

i wouldn’t buy it, it’s a cheapo brand and will most likely have crappy sound quality. ul be dissatisfied.

id buy a alpine R sub off sonicelectronix. and a mrp-m500 vpower mono amp for it.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12018_Alpine+MRP-M500.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4281_Alpine+SWR-1242D+-TYPE+R-.html.

with a box it would come out to be around 370-400$. that one sub will hit harder than both those 12’s ur looking at and the amp will last many long yrs.

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hi there,thanks in advance, i’ve recently bought samsung LA32B550K1R 32" HDTV.the TV’s stereo speakers supports surround sound system.by reading the manual,i’ve found that i have the choice to operate the TV’s built in speakers in parallel with the audio output located in the rear(red-white), or to mute the built-in speakers and take the whole audio output signal to another device such as external speakers or receiver.since it’s built in speakers have weak bass, i figured out connecting a powered subwoofer with interanl crossover directly to audio output out of the TV so i can maintain the speakers with the subwoofer at the same time with no need to receiver or home theater system.i can tell that i want to make a 2.1 system out of my TV, consists of my TV’s built in speakers and a subwoofer, since i have the option to operate it’s speakers with it’s audio output.the question is ,can i do this job successfully? or i’ll have to buy a receiver and take over the whole audio output out of the TV to external sound system?i thought if i can do that, i’ll buy a sub with line-level input and internal amplifier(crossover) to handle bass frequencies.the thing that really encouraged me thinking about that is TV’s built-in speakers can operate in parallel with audio output besides,it supports surround sound.so if i can do that?, what about bass quality? other thing ,is there in risk for my tv by connecting this sub? i hope my point-of-view is clear.thanks alot

If the TV’s pre-outs are or can be level controlled (output signal is controlled by tv volume setting) it will work fine you will just have to set the gain on the sub to your liking. If the outputs are constant level you will have to adjust the gain every time you change the volume setting on the tv which would not be fun.

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Here’s the situation.. I got a home theater system with two LARGE front towers (one tower houses two 12" bass drivers, a 6" midrange / midbass driver, and a tweeter), and 3 surround speakers with one tweeter and 5" midrange / midbass driver in each box. My question is this, and dont get me wrong, it gets extremely loud.. But I think theres more bass to be had.

The 12" (FOUR of them) bass drivers at -full- volume seem like they can handle ALOT more volume than what they do when my volume is maxed out, they produce nice clean and boomy bass, but they hardly even move. I’d like to see these 12’s really get after it and move a bit, which would eliminate the need to seek a seperate powered subwoofer. It actually suprises me a bit that they produce so much bass at such a small excursion, but I’d like to put that big ass surround they have to use and get them moving alot more.

any suggestions on getting these 12" bass drivers more juice?
testing something
ok, heres some additional details-

I purchased this entire setup as a whole.. meaning the reciever and speakers, dvd player, and everything else came as a set. If links work here, this is one of the towers- http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w244/Midgear_album/STEREO1.jpg

simply browze my photobucket images for additional pictures of the system. I believe the reciever is a 660 watt Sony reciever, Model Number STR-DG510. the front towers have ONE SINGLE INPUT. One + and one - on the back of the tower, which sends power through all the speakers in said tower. There are internal filters that send the appropriate frequencies to the appropriate driver.
MORE DETAILS-

a wider picture- http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w244/Midgear_album/Entertainment004.jpg

and to K, I know what "crappy" sound sounds like, distortion and the like. this system reproduces sound exceptionally well, such clarity and detail even at extreme listening volumes, it’ll destroy your hearing before you begin to hear distortion. I just wanted to know if there was a way to get more from the bass drivers.
Keep thinking of crap to add lol..

The bass drivers are in a sort of bandpass setup.. You’ll notice in the pictures that they are sitting behind a real thick plexiglass window, and there is a huge port on the back of the tower where air can get in and out. and yes, that’s blue velvet carpeting inside there.

Does the amp for the speakers have a equalizer? Crank the bass up on that.. But don’t go burning the amp out ay, don’t want to have to fork out for another one :).

Also, it’s possible that the speakers won’t reach much of an excursion.. Maybe they’re engineered to produce that amount of bass without having to move so much. Who knows…

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if i want to wire my subwoofers like this at 2 ohms http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=22
after i put the wires through their terminals in the box do i connect the negatives of each subwoofer together(same with positives) then connect the wire to the amp or connect each negative and each positive straight to the amp.

I have a class d mono amp
go to the link it shows that i have two 2 ohm dvc subwoofers nd the site shows three diagrams im wiring it at 2 ohms following the 2 ohm diagram

Either way is OK. The result is the same.

Sometimes, if the amp has a pair of positive and negative terminals, it’s easier to run a separate wire to each set of sub terminals. If the amp only has a single set of terminals, it’s probably best to run a wire to the first pair of sub terminals, and then use a short jumper to the other set of terminals. Keep all positives and negatives together for a parallel connection.

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Found an Acoustic Research ms253 cable for $7, $37-$80 in other places. It has a knob and an arrow at one end, does that end plug into the receiver? Also, it is 25 ft long, i need about 30 so I bought an adapter from radio shack and will just connect the two, is that ok? Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Research-MS253-Subwoofer-Y-Adaptor/dp/B00008VSM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1264612011&sr=1-1

The arrow will plug into the subwoofer. Technically, the arrow shows the signal flow where a third "ground" lead terminates independently of the two signal leads. The adapter should be fine, as long as it doesn’t introduce a ground-loop, which will be evident by a constant, low-volume "hum" coming from the subwoofer.

Good luck, although I’m sure you’ll do fine!

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We need to build a subwoofer and a tweeter for physics.

Do you mean actually construct speaker drivers (a very difficult task), or just build an enclosure for drivers you bought?

Are you really building a subwoofer, or will this be a woofer and tweeter in the same box?

There are lots of plans available, but if the goal is to learn something, you should probably design your own. Some tips:

Use MDF (medium density fiberboard) for the enclosure.
Decide if the the speaker will be acoustic suspension or ported, this is determined by the type of woofer.
You’ll need drivers, a crossover (could be a simple capacitor), terminals to connect the speaker wires to, a jigsaw or other way of cutting circular holes, and optionally fiberglass insulation to fill the enclosure (reduces internal reflections).

Good luck and have fun. I know I would.

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I don’t need a lesson on wattage…or impedance, or really the difference between sealed or ported or bandpass enclosures…

I want my subwoofers to shake your chest when you get into my small sports car. I was looking at some orion hcca competition subs, but I am not ready to drop over $1000 on some subwoofers…(I know where to get dealer pricing)…

Instead, I am looking at an orion amp, and 2 sony type r’s…I was wondering if it is the louder volume that shakes your chest, or if it is the lower range…

please only answer if you know what you are talking about, ie have professional experience…I don’t care if you have the loudest sound system in your high school…
I mean that lower frequency… And, I already know about covering the spectrum…I have upgraded my car speakers, and have 75 watts RMS going to each from an amplifier, so I know a good deal about car audio…its just that I have learned everything that I know from online, and really have little experience with actual applications…

The lower bass makes the sound pressure waves larger so you feel them more. This also does increase with volume because the speaker strokes farther producing larger sound waves. Hope this answers your question.

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i want to build a fiberglass subwoofer i know how to but how much should it cost me?

i want it to be about (L W H) 2.5′X1.2′X1′
and can u include a list with what each thing should cost?
thanks
im thinking something like these

http://www.neferaudio.com/images/subwoofer-rings-mirror.jpg

http://i5.ebayimg.com/04/i/07/b8/d4/18_1_sbl.JPG

i want it look more like this one.
http://i18.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/a0/ee/c9_1_sbl.JPG

Your materials and supplies should cost about $200-250.

Figure on using about 1 1/2 gallon of resin and 6-8 yards of fiberglass cloth/mat in about equal quantities. Use the mat for quick buildup and the cloth for extra strength.

Here’s a link to an excellent site for fiberglass supplies:

http://www.uscomposites.com/index.html

Also, here’s a link to a great fiberglass build from start to finish which includes photos and a materials list. Note that at the time of this build, US Composites price for 440 polyester resin was $25.95 per gallon. It’s now $32.50. The other listed prices will also be somewhat higher.

http://www.gadrivers.net/~dwicker/fiberglass.html

Some of the items you may not need, like the Bondo body filler or nylon rope. Other items that show no prices include the respirator, figure about $40 for a good one, gloves, about $8 per box of 50, and throw-away brushes, $1 each, and you’ll need 20-25.

Have fun and I hope you enjoy your new enclosure.

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I have a MTX Jackhammer Dual 12 inch Subwoofer, what kind of Amplifier should i get? peak is 1600 watts?

Additional Details
800w/RMS. 1600 w peak, 2 ohm, frequency response 38 hz-150hz

Yeah you need a amp that is 800rms@2ohm. But the Kicker ZX750.1 monoblock amp would work perfectly. Kicker unrates their amp,and that amp pushes out around 800-830rms.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11554_Kicker+08ZX750.1.html

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someone recommended this to me. I hear 10’s are usually more responsive and fast, which i need for double bass music and rock.

Lightning Audio TKBASS AMPLIFIED SUBWOOFER IN BOX 10"

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lightning-Audio-TKBASS-AMPLIFIED-SUBWOOFER-IN-BOX-10_W0QQitemZ250496740327QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item3a52c4ebe7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

lightning audio is really cheap stuff
a small step up is the sony xplods, they are kinda cheap but they are good
if u want this u should check walmart(where these are usually sold) to see if u get the same or better price(dont forget shipping)

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