Hi,
I have this home theatre subwoofer.The brand name is BASS ACOUSTIC…I was told it’s called a Liquid home theatre subwoofer.Whatever the F&*K that is lol.
The problem is,it works when it wants to.But i have figured out.It doesn’t play if i have left the power switch on off for a few hours.But if i turn the power off at the power point,and leave it like that for a while(like,4weeks maybe 2months)it works,but only for a few hours than it shits itself and won’t work again.
I just wanted to ask.What the problem sounds like,would it be a cooling or heating problem?
sounds like a cold soldering problem!
the soldering on a joint has come apart and when the system warms the solder stretches and reconnects but when left to cool it opens up and stopps working!
take a look at all the wirings inside and re solder if loose
powered by Yahoo answers
I was dumb and purchased an so called 500w sub off of ebay.. didnt get the quality i was looking for.. im looking to build one now, but although money is very tight and i dont have much to spend.. i want my room bouncing. it does now somewhat with this sub but when i turn the volume up it wont go.. as if too much power is being pushed. any ideas on nice subs that will give me of what i want with a fair/cheap price?? along with an amp im assuming ill need since i have no idea of how the amp i have currently with this sub is built with quality and willw ork or not..
This is the sub i currently have:
http://cgi.ebay.com/500-Watt-New-Home-Audio-Powered-Subwoofer-12-Inch-PRO_W0QQitemZ380095049043QQihZ025QQcategoryZ3276QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
-Thanks!
I was also wondering if this would be a good sub to get??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260344524010
Antiphon gave some great links.
You can buy Dayton subwoofer kits from www.partsexpress.com that has all the pieces you put together.
My advice: just use your sub for a while while you save money to buy the kit you want. Perhaps you want to learn about sub placement and how to optimize the sub you have with an SPL meter.
It wont ‘bounce the floor’, but you can have a good movie experience with it.
powered by Yahoo answers
This is not a system that is being created for competition reasons or any other reasons of that sort. This is a system for a everyday car and is hopefully going to create pretty good sound quality in the car. I am wanting to put 2 1" Lanzar tweeters up on the dash. The tweeters will have around 62 watts rms going to each of them and will receive frequencies between 3000 and 20000 hz. I will be putting 4 Audiobahn ABC5002V 5.25" speakers and I will be throwing out the tweeters and crossovers that come with that. The speakers will be receiving 50 watts rms a piece and the front speakers will receive frequencies between 250 and 3000 hz while the rear speakers receive frequencies between 100 and 250 hz. Finally I am wanting to install 2 Pioneer TS-W252R 10" subwoofers that will be ported to recommended specifications. Each subwoofer will receive around 62 watts rms just like each tweeter and they will receive frequencies between 20 and 100 hz. I will be tuning the system with a Lanzar OPTIX10 crossover.
My receiver will also be a Kenwood KDC-MP142. Something cheap but will still play my ipod.
I figure that this system will cost around $1000 or so and right now that’s about all I can give.
it would sound pretty good. you might want to run the tweeters on a little bit less power. tweeters don’t need much power at all.
and you might want to increase the amount of power to the subwoofers.
I personally wouldn’t use those brands, other than the pioneer subs, but you could probably make that sound good.
powered by Yahoo answers
Its a decent subwoofer. I’ve never personally been a fan of mtx audio, but I’ve heard some pretty good mtx setups. the type of amp you need depends on the ratings of the subwoofer. you always want to match the RMS ratings of your subs and amps. and I’m not familiar with the rms rating of the subwoofer in question, so just know you need an amp that matches its rms rating with rms watts. don’t pay max ratings any attention
powered by Yahoo answers
what has to match between them and any tips on what are some good ones that go together?
Ohms and for the best performance rms wattage but just make sure that the wattage of the amp does not exceed the wattage of your sub or it could blow your speaker. As far as recommendations go, KICKER.
powered by Yahoo answers
I just blew my Rockford Fosgate P2 Punch in my car and I am royally ticked! And the reason was because I had my amp WAY too high lol. but it sounded awesome for the whole 30 seconds it lasted LOL! But it was a 15 inch sub that I got at a steal of a price! Now I’m looking to replace it and I want another 15, but I’m not sure about this manufacturer? I was looking at a (I think its an Audiopipe? SP315?) SPL 15" 1200 RMS w 2800 peak w monster sub. I’m thinking that if I go higher in wattage than what my amp is putting out I won’t blow it again lol. But I can’t find any reviews on this sub and its driving me bonkers!!!!!!! I know I know everyone wants me to go with a Kicker or Alpine or Massive or MB Quart or Memphis or JL Audio or some other high dollar thing, but right now I need to look more at quality for a price under $225 since I have been laid off recently, just FYI. For this question right now I just want to know if anyone has had any experience with Audiopipe or this sub itself and how yall think it would do with a Kenwood 1000 watt mono amp.
Ok first off, I know all about the ohm loads and everything that wasn’t my problem, my problem was just me being too loud and proud with it and being one of those dorks blaring their crap wayyy too loud. Secondly, my car does not rattle when my bass pounds, I’ve gone through the whole car with insulation and dynamat and fixed everything that rattles. Third, nobody has even yet mentioned anything about the Audiopipe SPL sub I mentioned in the beginning?! Because the deal for it is about $130?! So IDK if its a good deal or if it is a P.O.S.?!?! I’m just trying to make a semi-informed decision here guyz. Either spend $130 on a sub that pounds like crazy and sacrifice name brand, or spend the extra 30 for another R.F. 15" P3 that operates at the same as my last one that just blew, and take the chance of blowing it!?!? I just want to know about Audiopipe since I haven’t really heard anything about it before?!
Well lets see here first thing you want to check is the ohm load that the kenwood puts out it’s 1000 watts. Then check the specs on the sub to see how many ohms the coil is and if it is a dual voice coil. If it is a single 4 ohm coil and your amp puts out it’s 1000 watts at 2 ohm you will only be giving the sub like half of what the amp will put out. To get the full 1000 watts you will need a dual voice coil sub @ 2 ohms per coil so you will be able to run it at 1 ohm if it is a 1 ohm stable amp. If the amp is 2 ohm stable you will need a dual voice coil sub @ 4 ohms per coil to run it at 2 ohm If your going to use the same box then you need to check to see if it has the right amount of air space for that sub. The box is the heart of the subs. Hope this will help please leave feedback thanks.
One thing to remember is if you go with a higher watt ratted sub that does not mean you will not blow it. If the sub is not moving like it should it will burn the coil also. As far as the audiopipe sub I am not familiar with them either so can’t help you on that part. As long as the specs for you box is the same and you are pushing at least the rms you should be ok here. But if you want the same sound may be better off to stick with the same one. Hate for you to spend that money and then be stuck with a sound you don’t like.
powered by Yahoo answers
I have a Ford Fiesta 58reg, and a Fli trap 10" 800w sub with built in amp.
Check Best Buy they’ll probably charge you around $65-75 and it will be done right.
powered by Yahoo answers
I need someones input on the better subwoofer Cerwin Vega Stroker Pro 12" or the Alpine Type X 12" or does anyone know of any better subs?
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega StrokerCerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker Cerwin Vega Stroker
powered by Yahoo answers
i am new to car audio and i have this subwoofer box from best buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Fierce+Audio+-+12%22+Dual+Slot-Ported+Subwoofer+Enclosure+-+Gray/8780642.p?id=1204924953327&skuId=8780642&st=Fierce Audio - 12" Dual &cp=1&lp=2
and i wonder if tw 12 audioque hd3 will work with this sub box or would i need a bigger box
or what subs would you suggest would be the best for my sub box
what you think about the 12” re audio sx
that box is way too small. you will need at least 1.8 cubic foot per sub with best performance at around 2.2 -2.5 cubic foot.
powered by Yahoo answers
which is better a Pyle PLBW84 Blue Wave 8" 600W High-powered Subwoofer or a Lanzar VW84 Vibe 800 Watts 8-Inch 4 Ohm Subwoofer
Hard to say their both low end products. I guess go with the Lanzar.
powered by Yahoo answers