i bought a new set of 5.1 genius speakers the woofers work perfectly when i test but doesnt work while playing songs and movies…..i use idt audio driver for my dp45sg mobo… plz help… it doesnt work while testing if i insert the orange jack ito the green but works while playing music … if i put it back correct then all the 5 speakers work except the woofer please help before i die of no bass sickness!!!
the movei might not support 5.1 or ur setup. of course it wont play during songs. songs online or downloaded are usuallyy only 2 speakers left and right..
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couple days ago, I tried to show off my amplifier to some chicks, so I gained up volume on the amplifier and subwoofer, than my subwoofer playing the beats constant. Do to that point I have shot off the system. Long story short, I waited for a day and turned back on the subwoofer have no problems at all, do to that point I gained the volume again, than my amplifier is completely shots off, it wouldn’t turn back on. I tried re-instill it wouldn’t work, I checked my power on my amp and battery is stable at 35.8 bats. So, I assume is not my power problems, I checked my fuse is not blown, which lead to only one concert ‘did the amplifier shot down because to do the heat?’ but it has cooling technology built into it. or can I blow the amp out? I had this amplifier running on 1500 watts RMS, which is 1500 watts one Ohm stable amplifier, I have never running in to this kind of problem, or should I change a new battery to see what’s going on? the amplifier is MTX audio Thunder elite 1501D and the subs are 2 MTX audio TS8512 at 4 Ohm. I am pretty sure that subs have no problems, they still going in and out pretty flexible when I pushing the center of the woofer in. So can you give me some info on what’s is really going on with my systems? thanks for reading all this and helping me out.
it can’t be broken, how can it be broken? the beats is playing before it shots off, and protection light is not even on, if the amplifier is broken 90% of the time the protection light will go on, the power light will go off. No light showing at all. my capacitor led lights still on when the amplifier turned off. which I know is do to the remote wire. I think must be some thing wrong with my power and grand wire. I just couldn’t figure it out what is happening.
learn to speak English and its broke just buy another
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okay my active subwoofer has a mayjor ground loop going and its making a humming sound everytime its switched on this humming continues even when in use. i have tried locating the ground cable to another part in the subwoofer no luck i was wonder what will happen if i remove the ground cable ? iv notist that most new things only have 2 cables insted of 3 now so ? isit safe ?
I’m assuming this is not a car audio subwoofer?
Might want to repeat the question in a different category.
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im looking for two 12 inch subwoofers that will go in a ported box. I want power and a clean sound. The specifics on the amp are—–Jl G-Max Monoblock Class D Subwoofer Amplifier, 600 Watts @ 4 ohm / 1200 Watts @ 2 ohm - 14.4 V
it all depends on how much u want to spend. good cheap subs are kicker cvrs. they could run you from 70 to 160 a piece these are the specs
Sensitivity: 86.7 dB
RMS Power Range : 400 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
Impedance: Dual 2 Ohm
Low Frequency response: 25 Hz
High Frequency Response: 500 Hz
Diameter: 12 Inch
but if u got money to spend i say go fosgate p3’s
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these amps of course would be running together, having the m500 run a 10" subwoofer and the f300 run a set of components and a set of 5X7’s. also should i ground them at the same place or different locations? and would a distribution block for the ground wires be necessary?
ew wiring kits
answers to your two questions in the discription first: yes you should ground them to a single point ground. this is the MECP way, so that you can easily determine if a ground is bad, and to keep it neat. a distribution block is never necessary, but it does make it a hell of a lot neater.
id recommend (for your application) 4 gauge wire from the battery to a distribution block (with ~120A inline fuse or circuit breaker) and then from that distribution block, segregate a 6 gauge wire (with ~80A inline fuse) for the M500 and an 8 gauge wire (with ~40A inline fuse) for the F300. use the same gauge from the ground of each amp to a second distribution block, then using 4 gauge wire from that distribution block run it to a dedicated ground point.
in terms of RCA audio cables and speaker cables, you can find these for cheap at some places (ive found 25ft RCA audio cable at the 99 cent store)
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im installing a sub in my car but dont have an amp. can anyone tell me how to install it?
You just screw it into a box and set it in your trunk. To get it to function you have to have an amp.
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So I have an RCA home theater system I pulled out of my own place and am now just using it as a stereo in my garage for my mp3 player. I have connected all of the wires but cannot get the subwoofer to power on. I connected the speaker wires from the sub to the correct terminals on the receiver but have 1 more wire, red and black (can be pulled apart) about 2 feet long hanging out of the back of the sub. There are no more terminals to connect them to but I am wondering, could it be possible my sub has to be powered and I ripped the plug out when moving? I don’t see myself being that careless but what else could it be for? I didn’t set it up the first time so I honestly don’t know if it was ever plugged into the wall. It is not a high end system with a power hungry subwoofer, so would it need external power? What could be my problem?
If there is a volume dial on the sub then most likely it needs it’s own power. Most larger subs are powered. That is they do their own amplification. It’s possible though that your system, a RCA HTIB I assume, does not have a powered sub. If the black and red wire are thick (like lamp cord) it could be power. Most likely they are not since power cords are usually just one color.
The sub does need to be hooked into the receiver. You might want to hunt down the manual and make sure you have everything plugged in to where it’s supposed to go.
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If you are trying to use the sub’s amp to power the passive speakers - no you can’t. The two 3 way speakers can be used with the sub if you get a separate stereo amplifier for them. The amp inside the sub is designed for the sub only.
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I have one of the most common cars in America, I didn’t think it was too much to ask.
I just wanted a custom enclosure for one 10" subwoofer (standard or shallow doesn’t matter) to fit in my 99 Civic coupe. Make it happen.
go to walmart they have speaker boxes for 10s
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I have a Toyota Avalon 2003 and my factory woofer got blown. I got an after-market subwoofer (same size: 8") and I don’t think its free-air. If I replace the factory subwoofer with the after-market without any enclosure, would the speaker still work? The factory speaker is 26 Watts. The after-market one is 400W. I don’t plan to use an amplifier. Also, electrically, it shouldn’t be a problem right? They both have similar impedance(3.7 Ohm for factory and 4 Ohm for after-market). I understand that I won’t be able to run the new subwoofer over 26 Watts.
Yes it’ll work, but how well is the real question. hook it up and try it, it wont hurt it.
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