Archive for the ‘20’ Category
This may sound asinine but I just want to see if it would work. I have a marshal stack amp that I use to play guitar with it. It also has an mp3 spot where you can hook and RCA/3.5mm jack into to put your iPod into the amp. (I think thats the right terminology) One end of the cable looks like a guitar plug the other is a 3.5mm male end. I use this to listen to my music because the sound quality is absolutely amazing. Now I cant change the equalizer settings of my guitar amp to change the sound of the music playing through it. So I want more bass in my music and was wondering if instead of having to cabinets attached to my head could I attach a cab and a sub? Is this possible or will I like blow my amp? The amp is a solid state amp and head and the head powers the cab. If you need more information ask me.
You could, just don’t go under suggested ohms. For example, if your amp is rated 4 ohms, and you’re using 2 x 8 ohm cabs. You could unhook a cab, and run it with a 8 ohm sub. But all frequencies would be going to the sub as well, and it’d sound bad. I wouldn’t do it. Maybe if your amp has a line out, like most amps, you could get a powered sub, or a sub and poweramp with an equalizer. That might work out. if you do it that way, you wouldn’t have to worry about going under the suggested ohm load.
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I wanna make myself a good speaker system to use with computer, mp3 player, and dvd/ps3/tv. I’m interested in several models (Logitech Z-2300, M-Audio AV40, Creative GigaWorks T40, etc.) but all of them seem to have their problems…and trust me, I’ve researched long and hard many computer speaker sets, and I haven’t found the perfect one for me (excellent mids and highs, excellent but not overpowering bass, multiple connectivity options with comp/mp3 player/tv, good price, good looks) . Is there any way that I can hook up a subwoofer to the AV40s or T40s, or replace the satellites on the Z-2300 with the AV40s or T40s? Or is there some better and more awesome setup that I haven’t discovered? Oh yeah, and let’s keep it under/around $200 
I can’t say much but several different brands of computing speakers have different type of connections. Even if they have the same, you may want to always exchange the speakers from each models, BUT you must always take note of several things:
- Can the new satellites cope with the power drawn from the amplifier built into the subwoofer, and vice versa?
- Are the impedance the same?
I have done that before when I had 2 Divoom and one Midiland speaker systems. Worked great, but I quickly changed back the satellites to the original one when I get to know from a friend who’s amplifier fuse recently blown due to excessive power drawing from the amplifier, which caused a small fire, but he managed to extinguish it before the flame built up.
Don’t hesitate that safety fuses always work all the time, they do, but they may just work at the time when you sparked an unwanted event; amplifier catching fire, speaker cable catching fire, blown speakers/woofers?
All in all, we have to agree each models have their ups and downs. I always remember one of my classic 4-year old 4.1CH whose subwoofer was darn too loud for me to handle. But I guess that’s the reason why manufacturers do have controls built in:
- Remember these?:
1. Volume
2. Bass
3 Treble
4. 3D (on some models)
You just got to live with it. Computer speaker systems do not match with those home theatre setups where you just need a speaker system that can be supported by an amplifier. So, start changing the settings as and when you need.
OK, another solution would be where you place the speakers. If the subwoofer is too loud, place it further away from any room corners, and if needed, not low down towards the ground. Satellites are best places a few inch above your ears levels.
And ya, I forgot, of the three models you listed, I can’t help it to say the Logitech Z2300 is the best as I have heard it performing relatively well.
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